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How Clothes Should Fit: Pulling, wrinkling, sagging, too long, too short, are the elements of dress you want to avoid in the overall fit of your garments.
How our garments hang on the body whilst moving, sitting or standing all play a part in how good we look and how comfortable we feel, it shows in our body language.
The wrinkling I speak of for example, is if a Jacket is too tight in the bust, it will pull into folds across this area and hang badly below the bust. Some of the obvious signs are when you button the jacket and there are gaps between the buttons which are tight to the point of straining, and the button hangs on precariously! In those instances it is much better to leave your jacket open, and no-one is any the wiser.
You can also have wrinkles in your garment which have nothing to do with the garment being too tight, but are created by the fabric used to make up the design. Linen is a classic example, that after long periods of sitting can wrinkle, but when you stand up and move around, in a good quality linen the wrinkles tend to fall out. It is also a reason why lined garments – half or full lining depending on the style – give support to the main fabric.
Sleeves – unless it is part of the desired style for extra long sleeves, too long a sleeve in a tailored jacket looks clumsy and takes away from the sharpness of appearance; here’s where you would call upon the expertise of a dressmaker or dry cleaners. Altering the sleeve length of a jacket to be in proportion with your body-shape is worth the investment.
Trouser hems that are too long to the point of dragging on the floor, especially when wearing ballerina pumps, are not a great look, plus with continuous wear you will damage the fabric at the hem, in addition to being covered in dirt; again make friends with your dry cleaner or dressmaker for alterations. Sometimes it’s not that the trouser leg is too long, but the trousers are long in the crotch area, therefore everything is going south with gravity playing her role. If you find yourself constantly pulling up your trousers around the waist, wearing a belt can be a solution, giving the trousers support.
Skirts and dresses – if you find yourself constantly pulling down the hem of your dress or skirt because you can feel a strong breeze in the nether regions, then it’s too short! The garment is riding up due to movement, the fabric is looking for the widest point on which to settle, which is usually the hips, so what started out as a dress or skirt above the knee becomes an unintentional mini dress or skirt.
Dresses and the bodice, this is the area from your nape to your waist. You may have found that on some ready-to-wear dresses, especially if the dress has a waistline, there are wrinkles at the waistline; this can be at the front or back of the garment, the problem being that the bodice is too long for your torso.
This type of problem can prove to be a bit tricky to solve with an alteration especially if the dress also has a zipper in place. It maybe better to consider an alternative style, or a different style brand as each company has their own fit model on which their patterns are based.
I hope these snippets of fashion fit information help with your next wardrobe purchases. In my next article I will be talking about the power of colour in your wardrobe, and difference it can make to your appearance.
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Coral Turner is a couture designer based in London. Specialising in unique ready-to-wear Race Day Fashion, her emphasis is focused on the way clothes make you feel. In addition a dressmaking service is also available. “My dresses are just like you… one of a kind.” See her website at https://coralturner.com
