A Touch of French Chic: London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2018 – Designers are Temperley London, Paul Costelloe and Eudon Choi.
For some designers at London Fashion Week inspiration came from France – a touch of French Chic.
SS18 captures the 1950s French Riviera scene and suggests days spent poolside, followed by martinis at golden hour. Inspiration came from the photographs of the rich and famous jetsetters taken by Slim Aarons.
Palazzo pants and ankle skimming cardigans come in playful, striped fabrics and knits echoing candy coloured parasols found on the Cote D’Azur. The colour palette celebrates life in the South of France; fresh azure blues, lilacs, shades of olive and laurel greens, rose and powder pinks and accents of candy cane red, poppy and peach.
A horticultural theme flows into embroidery; aerial views of symmetrical French topiary gardens combined with sheer polka dot chiffon and tulle ruffles.
Cinched in, feminine waists paired with relaxed, rolled sleeves feature throughout the collection, creating an overtly feminine silhouette reminiscent of 1950s sirens.
Ready for the midnight hour at Hotel du Cap, evening wear radiates in iridescent sequins and sheer gathered tulle with crystal embellishments.
Footwear is in collaboration with Spanish luxury brand Pedro Garcia.
Costelloe describes his collection as “It’s Paris, Washington and a touch of day-dream allure” as he juxtaposes Jackie Kennedy’s distinctive style with Paris’s Avenue Victor Hugo Boulevard chic. He blends with today’s technology produced by European mills – Emblem Weavers of Wexford, Sordevolo of Como and Dutel in the Loire Valley. Fabrics used are silk jacquard, summer weight wool and appliquéd cotton.
Costelloe also pays homage to the ’50s Dior look at the end of the collection with midi dresses.
Prints include floral with wide horizontal watercolour brush effect stripes and botanical flora,
Plus an exclusive chequer board designed by Paul’s son, William.
Latex adds a naughty element to an otherwise sweet collection.
Oversized totes and mini Jessica bags are inspired by the structural details of the collection.
Architectural statement jewellery is by Sarah Angold. Sock boots by Ego.
Titled E 1027, Eudon Choi takes inspiration from Irish architect and furniture designer Eileen Gray’s E-1027 house, a modernist haven on the SE coast of France.
The collection has a classic retro maritime feel translating the era and the French Riviera, whilst adding a twist of modernity with asymmetric scarf and the oversized blazer.
The villa’s name E-1027 is a code of Eileen’s and her lover’s (architect Jean Badovic) names: E for Eileen and the numbers represent their initials in the alphabet line up: 10 for Jean, 2 for Badovic and 7 for Gray. Circle patterns emulate the pattern on Gray’s blue marine rug. Look closely and you’ll see the number 53 – has Eudon Choi taken a leaf out of Gray’s alphabet book? 5 for E and 3 for C?
Other patterns include checks, tartan.
And of course the maritime stripe.
Colour palette is a maritime exploration, evoking open space and sea breeze.
Choi’s bag and footwear collection is a collaboration with lifestyle brand Decke.
This season Choi collaborated with jewellery designer Chris Habana. The designs reference the polished chromium and plate glass of Gray’s multi functioning furniture.