Real Women: London Fashion Week Spring/summer 2018 – Designers: Rejina Pyo, Teatum Jones, Paula Knorr, Michaela Frankova and Louise Linderoth.

London Fashion Week is all about fresh exciting trends for the season from both new and established designers. Here are a few designers whose vision included designing for real women and chose to have real women as their catwalk models.

Rejina Pyo

Rejina shows her designs are for women of all ages by using models of all ages. Inspiration came from Nicholas Nixon’s photographic series called ‘Forty Years of the Browns Sisters’ which captured the natural passing of time of the sisters.

The collection is relaxed but feminine and chic, great for a day at the races.

Fabrics include crisp cotton poplin whites, washed denim , summer wools and originally designed silk prints.

Colour palette is neutral…

…with injections of bold colours such as sage green, red and taffy pink.

Jewellery collaboration with London based designer Anissa Kermiche. Sunglasses collaboration with Korean eyewear brand Projeckt Produkt.

Teatum Jones

Teatum Jones’ SS18 is a creative homage to Natasha Baker, the GB Paralympics dressage eleven-time gold medallist. Inspired by Natasha’s open, feminine and bright personality the SS18 silhouette is about fluidity and draping.

The collection features summer tailoring, fine merino knits (in collaboration with John Smedley), asymmetric hems and pick-up draping.

The pick-up draping is especially designed to pick up fabric away from the wheels of a wheelchair using industrial sized eyelets and straps.

Printed silks are in a pattern based on the formation of a galloping horse. after Natasha’s former horse Woody.

Graphic twill stripes in pastel blue and mint green on oversized shirting and draped skirts were inspired by show jumping rosettes.

Colour palette is of flesh pink and summer blue representing the empowerment and freedom Natasha has when riding.

And dark navy and amber (two of the three colours found in a traditional English horse blanket made by Friday Fox), shows the unbreakable force and determination between Natasha and her horse.

Shoe collaboration with Christian Louboutin. Solid silver graphic Jewellery collaboration with Swedish based artisanal brand All Blues.

Paula Knorr

For SS18, Paula wanted to use her collection as a reminder of the actual purpose of fashion: that the woman should be in the foreground, not the clothes she wears. She wanted to explore how do real women choose and wear their garments? How does this change their perception of themselves?

Moving from creating mostly free-draped shapes Paula started to deconstruct and reconstruct everyday wardrobe staples to define a PAULA KNORR version for every piece.

Suits and coats are reworked in smooth jersey with soft drapes waving along their side seams.

Oversized shirts are transformed into fitted dresses with ruffled drapes.

Hoodies and Sweatshirts are completely reconstructed in stretch velvet with ruffled details.

Traditional shirting is set in contrast to matt jerseys, stretch velvets, fluid metallics and washed lamés.

Jeans are transformed into stretch lamé pants with dramatically draped legs.

Paula collaborated with model agency Linden Staub where the mantra is ‘Empowering Women’. Jewellery collaboration with Rathel & Wolf. Photography by Chris Yates.

Michaela Frankova

Michaela hires non-traditional models for her shows and SS18 was no exception.

Collection is inspired by the old classic Hollywood glamour of the Silver Screen from the 1920s to the 1940s:

Cigarette pants have embroidered seams.

Contemporary prints were created by surrealist artist T-Mo Bauer exclusively for Frankova’s collection.

Face jewellery, statement collars, headpieces and rings by Velvet Eccentric.

Bespoke Hats by Magdalene Celeste.

Photographer: Simon Armstrong.

Louise Linderoth

This graduate fashion design student at the Swedish School of Textiles showcased her denim collection titled Take A Seat.

Louise wanted to create and develop both construction and expression of jeans whilst sitting in a wheelchair.

Exploring what jeans reveal about the legs and the other way around, looking at the proportions of the legs in a seated position as for how they are perceived due to the position of the body.

She asks –Are you your legs?

What to read next on Eclipse Magazine