Russian Dolls

LFW S/S18 – Russian Dolls

Russian Dolls

London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2018 – Designers: Omar Mansoor & Bernhard Dyne; Milliner: Anna Gilder.

London Fashion Week SS18 revealed at least two designers looking towards Russia for inspiration – Omar Mansoor and Bernhard Dyne.

However, the similarities stop there, as the designers each take on a different perspective of Russian life. Omar’s ‘The New Empire’ collection embraces the Russian Revolution and its centenary celebrations, whilst Bernhard’s ‘Vronsky’ is enchanted by the romanticism of Imperial Russia.

Omar Mansoor – The New Empire

Omar Mansoor brings his own fashion spin to the Russian Revolution staying on point with modernday trends. Here he shows the exaggerated sleeve and rows of ruffles, both current trends in 2017 which will continue their march up the fashionista list for SS18.

Omar modernises the Russian peasant style dresses with on trend sheer panels and fashionable ruffles.

The beginning of the 20th Century saw fashion take a 360 degree turn from exotic and restrictive dresses to fuss-free uniform-like attires. Like most changes, this was a gradual process, a natural merging of the old and new; and Omar taps into this transitional period with the softer jumpsuit and belted dresses.

Colour palette used is neutral, almost colourless, shades to represent peace.

The neutral is accentuated with symbolic hand embroidered red army insignia alongside Faberge eggs.

Fabrics included chiffon, tulle and velvet. Eveningwear is simple and elegant.

Here’s our favourite for a ladies’ day at the races (although the necklines on both dresses will prohibit them from storming the Royal Enclosure at Royal Ascot).

Footwear by Lucy Choi. Photography by Shahid Malik.

Bernhard Dyne and Anna Gilder – VRONSKY

Bernhard Dyne joins forces with milliner Anna Gilder to bring their own take on the grandeur of Imperial Russia.

Dyne’s collection is inspired by Leo Tolstoy’s heroine Anna Karenina. Anna Gilder’s hat collection titled ‘High Society’ pays homage to the feminine looks of that era.

Dyne’s rich colour palette is of bold red, burgundy and gold symbolising the hidden passions of Anna Karenina.

Gilder also uses rich red, this time to represent sparkling rubies which she infuses with feminine pale blues.

Details of 3D flowers on lace and pearls represent the femininity of the heroine whilst the sharp architectural cuts of the dress show her strength.

Anna Gilder’s use of silk, taffeta, velvets decorated with gold and silver lace and exotic feathers combine elements of the period with a modern interpretation.

Most of Dyne’s collection is of evening wear but our favourite for a ladies’ day at the races is the deep burgundy mini dress with embellished sheer maxi overlay. All of Anna Gilder’s hats are perfect for a ladies’ day at the races.

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