To round up our review of London Fashion Week Men’s Autumn/Winter 2017 collections we have selected some highlights from the remaining shows:
Titled the ‘Jolly Roger’, this naval and submariner inspired collection is both tribute and testament to the incredible clothing worn by the British Royal Navy throughout WWII.
It interprets the harsh realities of life at sea through colour, fabric diversity and an array of special vintage wax treatments for a worn-in look.
Classic maritime silhouettes such as the pea coat and duffle coat have been faithfully reproduced in luxury Melton wool, while waterproof hand-waxed cotton and leather reinforce the stylish functionality of naval outerwear.
Charcoal grey, black and true navy form a base from which emerge brighter hues such as spruce teal, sanderling, cardinal red and burnished gold.
Inspired by the creative men that Phoebe knows, works and live with, her capsule collection has a focus on functional separates of loose coats, hooded jackets, smart folding collars and buttoned shirts, cotton joggers and wide fit trousers.
Photographs by Neil Mason.
Tourne De Transmission
The collection reflects the designer, Graeme Gauchan’s, teenage years and tries to understand how his adolescent self would have reacted to recent political isolation of youth by the government, the division of ideals and the loss of cultural icons.
His solace at that time was and still is music, he re-immersed himself in one of the bands of that period, RIDE, and one track in particular – NOWHERE – still sums up the frustrated inability to change a bigger situation.
Titled ‘Asylum’, the collection explores the rhythm of restriction by scratches, scars and stitches on the skin, body braces and athletic tape coiled around arms and legs.
Elbows on sleeves are sliced open, trousers are corseted against the torso and jackets have elongated exaggerated sleeves.
Colour palette is of polar white, heavy black and with shades of bruise.
Here military meets urban. Logos galore include Seventeen and Rambo Child.
A touch of S&M with leather, lace-ups and girdle-like belts. Knitwear is of camouflage patchwork
Colour palette includes bold monochrome and the more subtle military khakis.