London Fashion Week SS20 – Designers with Hats

London Fashion Week SS20 saw designers collaborating with marvellous milliners to complement their collection whilst others created their own wonderful wacky headpieces


Steve O Smith continues his collaboration with milliner Leo Carlton. This season the theme revolves around a debutante garden party. Starting early with the young ladies in angelic white satin, soon drinks are pouring freely and the party carries on into the dark of the night. The soft silky satin is replaced with shiny black PVC to match the growing mood of the party.

Shoes by Gina.

Photographs courtesy of The Lobby London.

Making a London Fashion Week debut are two Chinese designers courtesy of MCA (Milan Creative Design Academy) based in Shenzhen: Phyliss Wen with label Makopink and Christine Wang with label Joliydor

Makopink’s ‘Points of Soul’ reflects a free soul approach to the design element with most of the collection non-sized defined; allowing shapes to be loose or contoured depending on the wearer. Prints are inspired by Chinese divination and Western astrology.

Christine Wang graduated from ESMOD in Paris with a major in Haute Couture so it is little wonder that for her label Joliydor she was inspired by the chic Parisian woman (in the late ’80s ) and her own Chinese heritage. Pastel prints range from the traditional Chinese landscape painting to a modern emoji iconography.

Hats provided for both collections are by Elena Song.

Photography for both collections:  Simon Armstrong.

Rebecca Shamoon showcased her final graduate collection at Fashion London’s catwalk show. Graduating from Istituto Marangoni London, Shamoon’s inspiration came from different cultures and histories. Here the Fashion Police has been usurped by the ‘Queen’s Fashion Guards’ as her harlequin patchwork dress and the conical bra corset dress are teamed with bearskin helmets – now fashionably updated in blue and pink teddy bear faux fur.

Photographer: Shahid Malik.

The tall bearskin helmet makes another appearance. This time at the Bobby Abley show to portray the Emerald City guard in the Wizard of Oz – the film inspiration behind the collection. In emerald green faux fur and teamed with a maxi dress adorned with an emerald gem print, we are sure Dorothy would not be in any hurry to get home to Kansas.

Footwear by Sketchers.

Photography courtesy of IPR London.

To complement the collection’s two prints designed by abstract painter Sirenes, luxury fashion label Kepaza playfully created an artist’s beret and a fascinator in the shape of the paint palette.

Photography by Joanna Mitori.

Rocky Star was inspired by the chronicle tales of a summer sunset in Mughal gardens of India, as the hazy beige, soil black and moonlight ivory create shadows and light against the bloom of the empress of the garden – the bougainvillea. This is the colour palette chosen for the collection with vibrant fuchsia headpieces representing the bougainvillea.

Photography courtesy of Pop PR.

Pam Hogg turned the catwalk into a flamboyant poodle walk with her ‘Best in Show’ collection. Show stopping bonnets decorated with prize bows or coloured tulle resembling a poodle’s bouffant. The collection featured Hogg’s signature crinoline style dresses and figure hugging catsuits adorned in ribbons and bows.

Photography courtesy of Pop PR.

Titled and inspired by three books, all similarly named ‘Thief of Time’ but with different authors and stories, Apu Jan creates floral headpieces. Tying in with the theme of time, the first headpiece is an abundance of colourful flowers blossoming and flowing around the model like a cape, whilst the last is smaller and darker representing dried or dying flowers. Print on the coat and both trousers feature deadwood and stars. The broken lines reflect the disruption wreaked by time.

Footwear by NIKE.

Photography courtesy of Apu Jan.

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