Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week: Belle of the Summer 2018 Ball
Ziad Nakad celebrates the ‘Goddess of Wheat’ and ‘Mother of the Earth’ who gather the fruits of the earth and offer them to humanity. Its cult is particularly flourishing in European countries where wheat is found in abundance, in Sicily, in the region of Eleusis, in Crete, in Thrace and in the Peloponnese.
Colour palette of pale blue representing the sky…
Yellow and gold of the wheat…
And bronze for the fertile earth.
Wheat ears dot the dresses, a tribute to the most iconic representation of the goddess Demeter.
Rani Zhakem – ‘Ode to a Volcanic Woman’ celebrates life and joy in incandescent metaphors.
Fire is the essential element of the collection and comes in pyrotechnic explosions of gold, drawn by embroideries of crystals representing lava whilst fringing cascades over shoulders like a volcano erupting.
Zakhem also salutes the designer masters who nourished his vocation including:
Halston with a loose single colourful shouldered dress plus golden Mao collar, and Jean-Louis Scherrer with a scarfed collared, split yellow chiffon, plissé soleil dress plus mouton sleeves.
A tribute to Mireille Darc who famously wore Guy Laroche’s backless dress with a feuille d’or chiffon dress knotted in a wraparound bustier dropping into a deep backline, and a tribute to the draper extraordinaire designer, Madame Gres, with a silk jersey in silver grey plus large bow of black silk satin on the shoulder.
Silk satin kaftans, embroidered on the edges with gold sequins and flame patterns at the bottom, recall Rani Zakhem’s native Orient and play the bond between his multiple cultures.
Laskaris – Titled and inspired by ‘Olympias’, the Princess of the Molossian of Epirus, the wife of Philip II, King of the Macedonians, and the mother of Alexander the Great.
The collection begins with the birth of Olympias in Pasaronas, an ancient city of Epirus. It is said that she slept with snakes and nursed reptiles so these are shown made of skins, embroidered with handmade enamels or depicted on clothes with dazzled Swarovski.
The emblem of Epirus, an oak, gives its green colour to the collection which is composed of ivory and pastels.
Olympias’ life leads to Samothrace, where the designer Laskaris was born and where Olympias became a priestess of the Kavarion Mysteries and Philip II met and fell in love with her.
The last phase identifies Olympias as the wife of Phillip II in Pella and in Aigia – today’s Vergina – where the leather, embossed flowers in the wreaths of the collection have been influenced.